• 2 Stainless steel or pyrex bowls, to hold at least ½ gallon volume each
• Coffee filters
• Strainer to hold coffee filters (coffee pot top is ok unless aluminum.) Do not use aluminum.
• Squirt bottle with good lid, or dropper bottle
• pH paper that tests up to at least 11 (I’m happy with strips ordered from www.indigo.com )
• Glass jar (spigot at bottom is useful)
• Turkey baster or 50cc syringe (esp. if you don’t have a spigot on the jar) Pyrex measuring cup.

• Coarse sea salt. The gray kind that looks damp—clumps together—is best. I get it from Trader Joe’s for $3.79/2-cup jar. Or you can order Dead Sea Salt directly from www.snowdriftfarm.com
• Lye (Red Devil Lye is in most groceries in the Drano section). You can also order food grade lye from www.snowdriftfarm.com
• Gallon of Distilled water
• White distilled vinegar

Preparation: Do this over the sink, out of the way

Place the squirt bottle or dropper bottle in the sink and pour the lye solution into the bottle. If water is still hot, leave the lid loosely placed over the top. You can fasten it later, when the water cools down.

1. Pour 4 cups of water in a bowl and dissolve 1cup of salt in the water. (Different brands of salt have different yields. Dead Sea salt takes 1/8 cup per gallon.)
2. Strain salt water thru coffee filters into the second bowl. You will probably have to use many coffee filters, as there’s a lot of “stuff” in sea salt.
3. With pH paper ready, start adding dropperfuls (or very small squirts) of lye-water to the salt water, STIRRING CONSTANTLY. (Vary your stir pattern, as the lye-water will tend to concentrate on one section unless you blend it everywhere.)
4. Check the pH of the water. You want the pH to reach 10 without going as high as 11. It will rise slowly til it gets to about 9, and then will go faster. When it gets to about 10 it will suddenly rise FAST. If it gets as high as 11, add a few drops of vinegar to bring the PH back down.
   Note: The reason for the exact pH reading is that the m-state elements will drop out of the water at just over 10.5. If you go too high, other elements (“Gilchrist Elements”) will drop out of the water, and they are bad for you. So you want the pH to stay under 11. (10.78 to be exact).
5. When the correct pH is reached, check several places in the water to make sure it’s evenly distributed.
6. Pour water in large jar. Let it settle for at least 4 hours. Overnight is best. A white or grey precipitate will form at the bottom of the jar.
7. When 4-12 hours has passed, drain or siphon off the clear water (salt water), and refill the bottle with distilled or good drinking water. (You may keep this water, adding more distilled to it and raising the pH to get more precipitate.) Shake it and let it settle again. This is called “washing the precipitate”.
8. Wash the precipitate at least 3 times with clean water, each time shaking it and letting it settle at least 4 hours before repeating.
9. After the last wash, pour the “slurry” of grey/white powder and water into a glass jar with a lid and save it for use. Store it away from electric or magnetic fields.
10. Since Ormus is strongly affected by intent and by energy fields, it seems to increase its potency if you surround it with high-energy objects. These range from crystals, to photos of beloved teachers or grandmothers, to written intentions of goals, etc.